You're right that the New Yorker article was surprisingly well-informed and free of gourmet-tourist guff. But it might leave the reader with the impression that olive oil in Apulia is suspect. Only its origin might be falsified. I mean it might be from Greece, Albania, Turkey or elsewhere, and not from Apulia. But if it's inferior or ersatz the locals will simply spit it out. They are connoisseurs without knowing the word. A woman of sixty told me she remembers her father opening the front door, slamming it and going back to osteria for dinner. Her mother had dared to try a drop of peanut oil for frying. You hear people saying they prefer a more or less fruity oil for such and such a purpose, but they won't put up with admixtures or non-olive products. The Cretan oil you mention with credentials available via web site makes me think that one smart Greek has learnt that Americans like Northern Europeans prefer talking to tasting. Put the right word on it and they'll buy. The clueless wine buff will be able to chat now with olive oglers whose discrimination is all in their vocabulary.