If there's one local chef I'd like to see a cookbook from it's Paul Kahan. In yesterday's New York Times magazine, in a story about the charitable work of name chefs, Michael Ruhlman included an adaptation of Kahan's Sauteed Sweetbreads with Beets and Molasses. It's not the sort of thing anybody's going to whip up after a hard day in the mines--it requires lots of soaking and draining. But if you make the time for it (and I plan to) it looks like a valuable lesson in what to do with the fifth quarter [via]. Kudos to the NYT for giving a practical nod to what Chris Cosentino calls the "whole animal ethic."