Lack of space prevented me from writing about an exciting side project of enfant terrible Albert D'Angelo, the subject of this week's Omnivorous, who's been variously described by colleagues as the Criss Angel of the kitchen, an overprivileged carpetbagger cynically trying to make a nut on Chicago's shiny new reputation as a culinary capital, and the next Next Food Network Star. D'Angelo, who first attracted this sort of attention in Manhattan's underground restaurant scene, has taken that concept to another level by starting an artisanal foie gras farm in an abandoned candy factory on the west side.

Naturally, he wouldn't tell me where it was, but he says his unnamed investor budgeted "significant outlays to discourage government interference." He did introduce me to the magnificent prizewinning male Muscovy duck (pictured) who sired the first flock of ducklings, numbering several dozen so far. D'Angelo named him Joe Moore, and says the livers of his offspring should be ready for Tuesday night's first seating.